The Most Reserve
20 Kas 2025
Dior Men’s winter collection feels like a time slip this season. Kim Jones pulls Christian Dior’s 1954-55 Ligne H silhouette back into the spotlight and places it directly onto the modern man, not as an archive lesson but as if he is reshaping the definition of masculinity itself. There is a strong sense of transformation throughout the collection, with forms, eras and even gender codes flowing into one another.
From the very opening of the show, the language of couture seeps into menswear. Those robe-like shapes borrowed from the women’s archive, the opera coats, the belted and exaggerated volumes… There is a controlled opulence in the movement of the fabric and in the drapery where the light slides over satin and silk. The aristocratic shine of these materials never turns romantic. Under Jones’s strict discipline it becomes something cooler and more masculine. The silhouettes are striking without trying to show off, almost sculptural.
The shadow of Casanova moves in the background. Rather than a historical character, he appears as a persona who hides behind masks. Feminine details are borrowed from couture, while masculine lines recall the sober utilitarian structure of the 19th century. The man who stands between these two worlds is the man of today, someone who does not follow rules but still appreciates the seriousness of form.
The accessories keep this duality alive. Soft shearling Roller bags walk beside almost architectural Normandie totes. In footwear, the hardness of classic men’s shoes is interrupted by the satin shine of the couture bow detail. The bow cap element is a small but striking signal of the slightly theatrical attitude that runs through the whole collection.
And then there is Pondichéry. Seeing how the 1948 couture embroidery is carried into 2025 is one of the most elegant moments of the show. The pink robe that closes the collection is not just a final look. It is a symbol of how the entire Dior archive is translated into the present day. Even the pinstripe, the herringbone and the raindrop beading carry a richness that does not try to appear simple. The craftsmanship is so controlled that the opulence never needs to raise its voice.
This season Kim Jones reminds us that masculinity is not a fixed form but a constantly shifting structure. It is a narrative of style that breathes between couture and ready-to-wear, uniting past and present in a single line, stripped of excess yet still powerful. What Dior Men presents is not a trend. It is an attitude.
And that attitude might be the clearest fashion statement of winter 2025-2026.